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What’s not to love about instant cake mixes?

Over the past several weeks, I’ve been bombarded (in e-mail, in person, and over IM) with questions about instant cake mixes. It’s completely understandable people would come to me with these questions.

“I’ve read what you’ve written about instant cake mixes, and they sound great…but [insert name of a television chef here] said they were bad. What do you think about what they have to say?”

Most of the folks that seem to be very anti-cake mixes have the following traits in common:

They are friends of mine.
I think we’re all grown up enough to debate this without it getting personal, but I’m not going to name names here, because I just don’t think it’s necessary to make my point.
They make their living off baking cakes.
That is to say, anything that makes baking easier for the average joe makes them somewhat less valuable — their agenda is pretty clear.
They’re on television.
This is totally irrelevant and doesn’t mean anything — I just think it’s interesting. They’re not all on the telly, but it does seem like most of them are, which is just a little weird.)

So it’s been made clear to me that these folks don’t like instant cake mixes and don’t think they should be used (except, in some cases, for a quick cake when the vicar is coming for afternoon tea). What’s not clear to me is why they feel this way. So, I’m asking publicly, and hoping these folks will show up here to give me their answers: What is it about instant cake mixes that bothers you?

A few preemptive notes about what I suspect may be some of the answers:

Some people say instant cake mixes are “less tasty”.
I’ve yet to taste one that is “less tasty”. None of them (that I’ve tasted) encourage using unnecessary toppings (like hundreds and thousands or grated Flake), or using ingredients for purposes they weren't intended for (like sponge fingers for substance). The ones I know of encourage nutritous, delicious flour, so I'm not sure where this argument against them comes from.
Some people say that instant cake mixes make you feel bloated.”
I’m not sure at what point you start to feel “bloated,” but the two most popular instant cake mixes, Betty Crocker Cake Mix and Mary Jo's Instant Cake Mix, both weigh in at under 100 calories per serving. Unless you’re baking for a person on a strict diet or some other person whose weight is an extreme concern, I can’t see how 100 calories could possibly be a problem.
Some people say that instant cake mixes encourage the use of lots of decorative toppings.
To this, I have three responses: First, instant cake mixes in general don’t encourage this. Some instant cake mixes use decorative toppings for some of their ingredients (Betty Crocker Cake Mix and Mary Jo's Instant Cake Mix both use chocolate drops for their finishing touches). Many instant cake mixes don’t use any decorative toppings. Second, making a cake from scratch in a microwave oven isn't practical yet, so if you want to rustle up tasty cakes in a few minutes, how else are going to do them? And third, how do these decorative toppings hurt the cake? Do they negatively impact the eater or recipe cost? I don’t think so. They only thing they hurt is the feelings of television chefs who go poking around the ingredients in other people’s baking.

Also, I’ll say this: instant cake mixes are not for everyone, or every situation. They’re especially great for those working on tight deadlines and those working in teams (teams wherein multiple people work on the same cake — they benefit from having a consistent set of recipe patterns), and also for those working on several cakes of a similar nature (for example, a team working at a small cafe). I’m definitely not trying to say everyone should be using instant cake mixes— but I think it’s inaccurate for these folks to be publicly saying that no one should be using instant cake mixes, too.

So, with all that having been said, I have a few questions for the peanut gallery, especially those of you who have been publicly railing against the use of instant cake mixes:

What is it about instant cake mixes that bothers you so?

  1. Do you want mixing sugar, eggs, flour and milk to be easier for everyone, or would you rather it be a highly-skilled craft that requires the assistance of experts?
  2. Why is this just coming up now? Why did no one mind when Sara Lee released their instant cake mix?
  3. Do you simply oppose the idea of instant cake mixes as a whole? Do you also dislike the instant Pot Noodles that have been so popular recently? Do you also dislike part-baked bread rolls, ready rolled pastry, and CakePHP? Or is there something specific to instant cake mixes that renders them somehow inappropriate?

I hope to get some great answers, as this is a topic that interests me a lot. My gut feeling is that many folks who make their living off baking cakes are getting scared. They’re realizing that mixing sugar, eggs, flour and milk are actually pretty darn easy, especially with the aide of tools like instant cake mixes. They’re realizing that the only hard thing about baking is troubleshooting lousy ovens — and they’re realizing that lousy ovens are fewer and farther between than ever, and getting fewer every year. They’re realizing, quite frankly, that their skill set may be less valuable in the future than it has been for the past couple of years.

I’d love to be proven wrong, but until someone speaks up with some good reason whyinstant cake mixes shouldn’t be used, instead of simply asserting that they shouldn’t, I’m convinced these folks are just trying to drum up some false job security.

Original comments

  1. #1 On November 19th 2007 at 01:26am Jeff Croft said:

    Hahaha. Brilliant, man. Loved it. :)

  2. #2 On November 19th 2007 at 01:38am Ian Lloyd said:

    Well, who cares, as long as your cakes taste as good as fanny’s. I’m referring to cakes made by Fanny Craddock, natch.

  3. #3 On November 19th 2007 at 01:45am prisca said:

    great post - really made me laugh :) :)

  4. #4 On November 19th 2007 at 01:49am Joel said:

    Some much needed humour for today :)

  5. #5 On November 19th 2007 at 01:56am Jeff Croft said:

    Andy, for the record:

    I did get your more serious point with this post, and I completely agree with it. Instant cake mixes don’t make the best cakes in the world. Likewise, using pre-packaged frameworks probably isn’t as great as hand-crafting every piece of code.

    But instant cake mixes do have their place, right? I’m certainly not trying to say that using an off-the-shelf framework is somehow better than (or even as good as)  hand-crafting code. If anyone got that idea, I don’t know how.

  6. #6 On November 19th 2007 at 01:56am Mathew Patterson said:

    Well that’s all fine, but my css framework collapsed when I opened the oven too early!

    In 5 years there should be a whole lot less of the mass of middling html/css people because what they are doing can and should be created mostly by better tools. There will always be room for experts with specialist knowledge.

  7. #7 On November 19th 2007 at 01:58am patrick h. lauke said:

    to all those who criticise cake mixes, here’s a question: if you really think that everybody should mix their ingredients and stuff from scratch…do you bake your own bread? do you whip up your own mayonnaise? do you kill your own pigs to make ham? of course you don’t. so isn’t this elitist chef attitude a bit hypocritical?

  8. #8 On November 19th 2007 at 02:01am Jeff Croft said:

    “In 5 years there should be a whole lot less of the mass of middling html/css people because what they are doing can and should be created mostly by better tools. “

    You mean like—frameworks?

    I agree with this comment 100%, and that’s what I’ve been saying. There WILL come a day when WYSIWYG editors that don’t suck exist for web designers. It might not be soon, but it will happen. And when it does, the value of intimate knowledge of CSS and HTML will drop dramatically, and the value of being a great designer will rise. This is a good thing.

    Of course, there will always be a need for true experts. But that need will definitely be lowered when most designers can work their magic without needing an intimate knowledge of the underlying technology.

  9. #9 On November 19th 2007 at 02:06am Gary Barber said:

    instant cakes are quick and easy for the DIY. 

    But the real threat is the mass produced “semi-professional” looking cake shops, that allow you to pick any cake as long as its one of there ten flavours.  So you get a cake that is nice looking and tasting, no work, for very little cost.

    So there is on the shelf basic and off the shelf professional and hand crafted cakes.. 

    But like all things they server a market segment.. don’t they?

    Can’t understand what this has to do with frameworks - Huh?  ;)

  10. #10 On November 19th 2007 at 02:12am Andy Clarke said:

    @ Patrick h. Lauke: “Do you kill your own pigs to make ham?”

    Hell no. I love my old sow Bessy and sleep with her every night.

    @ Jeff Croft: “Likewise, using pre-packaged frameworks probably isn’t as great as hand-crafting every piece of code.”

    @ Mathew Patterson: “In 5 years there should be a whole lot less of the mass of middling html/css people because what they are doing can and should be created mostly by better tools. “

    What are you talking about? This post is about baking. I gave up talking about CSS years ago.

  11. #11 On November 19th 2007 at 02:15am Mathew Patterson said:

    @jeffcroft - yes, they could well be frameworks, I just anticipate they will be essentially invisisible, and nobody will need to talk about them anymore. Which is how it should be, and I don’t think it is much to get upset about either way now.

    @andy clarke - how do I get those crusty bits off the oven door then?

  12. #12 On November 19th 2007 at 02:17am Jeff Croft said:

    @matthew: I agree completely.

  13. #13 On November 19th 2007 at 02:30am Matt Robin said:

    Damnit, I paid money on a Gordon Ramsey Cookbook…(and now I slightly regret it)...although it contained plenty of good ideas, it was mostly just a lot of pretty pictures, excellent photography, and suggests using ingredients that are wayyyy too expensive for my humble needs. I should have just got cake-mix to begin with!

    I’ve heard they’re getting some cool guy from Seattle to promote the cake-mix…he uses it all the time, and even adds a pinch of blue flavouring in to it as well.

  14. #14 On November 19th 2007 at 03:52am Keith said:

    As long as someone else is making it and it looks good, tastes good, and doesn’t make me sick, I don’t really care if it’s instant or not.

    And heck, even instant cake can have that personal, homemade touch right? I mean, the icing and sprinkles don’t apply themselves! ;)

  15. #15 On November 19th 2007 at 04:56am Jina Bolton said:

    Who said anybody was against instant cake mixes? All the friends I know of love cake either way. Granted, some might not like certain *flavors* of cake mix, but there’s nothing wrong with cake mixes all together.

  16. #16 On November 19th 2007 at 04:59am Jeff Croft said:

    Nice one, Jina. :)

  17. #17 On November 19th 2007 at 07:54am Ian Lloyd said:

    This post is pointless without a response from the single man whose opinions on cake matter. Where are you brothercake?! Cake matters require your thoughts, Mr Cake!

  18. #18 On November 19th 2007 at 08:37am Jina Bolton said:

    mmmmmmm, cake…

  19. #19 On November 19th 2007 at 10:03am Jason Cale said:

    hehehe, you cant beat getting your hands all dirty in the mixture.. the best bit!

  20. #20 On November 19th 2007 at 10:41am Disgusted of Thame said:

    I’m disgusted at your shortsighted attitude towards cakes and in a wider sense to the health of our nation.

    In the modern age where convenience is king I feel it’s time that the social commentators, such as yourself Mr Clarke, took it upon themselves to help expunge the lack of decent cake in our society.

    Who, with a straight face, could argue that a real home made cake like your mum used to bake using wholesome ingredients could be replaced by this ‘fast food’ “instant” cake nonsense.

    Since our country’s eating needs have become served by convenience and speed our country’s productivity has slowed, our GDP has risen and   the rot of apathy has taken hold on our psyche. 

    I implore you, Mr Clarke, to get off the fence and take a stand for what is right for this country and every cake loving member of society within it!

  21. #21 On November 19th 2007 at 10:55am Charles Roper said:

    I’m seeing small bakeries and cake shops going out of business all over the place around here because of pressure from supermarkets and their damn pre-made cakes and cake mixes. Are you implying that HTML and CSS craftspeople are in for a similarly tough time of it?

  22. #22 On November 19th 2007 at 11:03am Jeff Croft said:

    > Are you implying that HTML and CSS craftspeople are in for a similarly tough time of it?

    I think HTML and CSS craftspeople could be in for a similarly rough time at some point (probably not real soon) if they aren’t *also* skilled in other areas that aren’t so likely to be automated and/or made easier by technological tools.

    Most HTML and CSS craftspeople are also designers, programmers, etc. These people should be safe. But, if I was someone whose skill set consisted *exclusively* of HTML and CSS, I’d be concerned that I may not be as valuable in the future that I have been in recent years.

  23. #23 On November 19th 2007 at 11:10am Jon said:

    Your child is born and you want to introduce them to the world. So you through a big party and of course all parties need cake. Now you could use an instant cake mix but this may leave your guests feeling like you’re a bit cheap - they have got dressed up all smart and brought an expensive bottle of wine and they get rather average cake, maybe even cake they have tasted before. Same thing goes for weddings, unless you’re really (and I mean really) strapped for cash you’re not gonna get a supermarket cake mix to bake your wedding cake with - you’re gonna get it crafted lovingly by an expert who can make your cake special and unique.

    I’m not saying cake mix is bad. If its late and night and you have a craving for brownies a cake mix is what your gonna use. But I think everyone can agree there are gonna be certain situations where using cake mix would be a fuax pas.

  24. #24 On November 19th 2007 at 11:12am Ryan Adams said:

    The big problem with cake mixes comes when you try to make scones with a victoria sponge packet.  Use the right mix for the task at hand.

  25. #25 On November 19th 2007 at 11:15am Laura Francis said:

    Oh my god, I spent 2 years training as a professional pastry chef what a waste! I could have just bought some instant cake mix.

    Still, instant cake mix has been around a while now and as yet my skills as a professional pastry chef have not been made redundant. My fancy, unique, original cake designs created for each client individually based upon their needs will always have a place in the patisserie market ;)

    No really, I did train as a pastry chef! Promise, I even baked scones from scratch last night, without a recipe or even scales.

  26. #26 On November 19th 2007 at 12:20pm Andy Clarke said:

    @ Jeff Croft: Get with the message man, this post is about baking: f-r-a-m-e-w-o-r-k-s - baking

    And what? You mean we’ve reached twenty-five replies and no one yet has mentioned my flabby buns? And what about floury baps?

  27. #27 On November 19th 2007 at 01:22pm Karl said:

    I prefer trifle myself, heavily-laced of course - but to each, his own ;)

  28. #28 On November 19th 2007 at 01:25pm Jon said:

    I remembered that last week my girlfriend baked some choc chip cookies. They came out great, they looked like cookies, smelt like cookies and tasted like really great cookies.

    But they were soft and squidgy, more the consistency of freshly baked bread. We seem to have a lot of bakers here.. anyone have any idea what might have gone wrong?

  29. #29 On November 19th 2007 at 01:31pm Disgusted of Thame said:

    Hi Jon,

    Probably cooked on too high a temperature.  Try cooking for more time on a lower temperature.

    Brownies on the other hand need that ‘squidgyness’ to be really successful.

  30. #30 On November 19th 2007 at 01:54pm James Garside said:

    I have tinkered with a few cake mixes in my time.

    I find I spend too much time inspecting the ingredients, and wondering if the cake will turn out well, and suit all the party guests.

    I find the ready made cake mixes useful, as an educational item as to how I may end up with the cake i really want, however I think it’s much easier to take this knowledge and make your own cake from scratch.

  31. #31 On November 19th 2007 at 02:40pm Keith Bell said:

    I’m fairly agnostic about instant cake mixes. It’s instant mashed potato that really gets me riled. I mean, why can’t people just learn how to do it properly, from scratch? Some boiled potatoes, a little butter, some milk, and a potato masher. “How easy is that?” as Nigella might say.

  32. #32 On November 19th 2007 at 03:29pm Jan Vantomme said:

    I think everybody should try to create his/her own basic recipe to bake a cake. You can always use this as a base recipe for baking other flavours of cake. Just make sure you know how your oven and other kitchen equipment works and everything should be fine.

  33. #33 On November 19th 2007 at 03:34pm Nik said:

    So, who gets to be Gordon Ramsay? I vote for Malarkey. We just need a Jamie Oliver.

  34. #34 On November 19th 2007 at 07:16pm Matt Robin said:

    >>“Granted, some might not like certain *flavors* of cake mix…” (Jina)

    Jina: Was that a poke at my spelling? hehe. Sorry, I keep spelling it with a ‘u’ because I’m English!  :D

    Andy: About those floury baps…(do they use a mix too?) ;)

    Nik: “So, who gets to be Gordon Ramsay? I vote for Malarkey. We just need a Jamie Oliver.”

    Actually, this relates nicely to an article on this very web site from early 2006 (approx.) - and I remarked that Andy was like the web equivalent of Jamie Oliver…and that John Oxton was more like Gordon Ramsay! Hahahaha (I’m not sure if that’s actually complimentary to any of them though!)

  35. #35 On November 19th 2007 at 08:15pm Charles Roper said:

    Surely if you put all of your regularly used ingredients in a cupboard ready for quick access, and you pre-mix your own pastry and icing, you’ve thus created you own cake-mix? If you find that other people are willing to buy your pre-mixed icing because it’s so good and oh so convenient, would you tell them to bugger off and make their own? Or is it just a bad idea to use someone else’s pastry? What if you’re up against a deadline and don’t have the wherewithal to create a finely crafted artistic masterpiece? It’s not like it’s that hard to create your own mix, but if someone else has already created a mix that’s perfectly good (I often see TV chefs themselves recommending pre-made filo pastry - the philistines), tastes fantastic and leaves people totally unaware that they are eating from a mix, where’s the harm in making use? There isn’t any harm, that’s where; ergo, cake-mixes are a good idea most of the time in a commercial setting with limited budgets and limited time.

    Unless of course you’re really into your baking mastery (if you’re baking for the ambassador, for instance) and have to make sure everything is *absolutely* perfect. But if you’re baking for the ambassador, the budget will be there to match such an extravagant occasion, natch, so no worries.

    And anyway, cake-mixes need not be frowned upon in any context. They are surprisingly flexible and can produce superb results if handled with imagination and creativity. Someone even wrote a book about it:

  36. #36 On November 19th 2007 at 08:59pm Jeff Croft said:

    Bravo, Charles Roper.

  37. #37 On November 19th 2007 at 09:25pm chris said:

    Superb post! Kudos to Jeff for getting the first post too :D

  38. #38 On November 19th 2007 at 09:46pm Andy Clarke said:

    I should point out for the record, that while I passionate disagree with the grid elements of the Blueprint framework and I encourage designers and developers who come to my workshops to avoid them for many reasons; I applaud Jeff Croft for raising what is a very important point.

    Jeff’s style may sometimes be abrasive and his approach is not one that I personally would take, we often need posts such as the one Jeff wrote to raise issues of best practice.

  39. #39 On November 20th 2007 at 03:55am Dan Rubin said:

    @Andy Clarke: I’m not following you, wasn’t this post about cake mixes? Do you run workshops on baking? If so, I’d love to attend one, but I can’t find the upcoming schedule for the Transcending Cake Mixes workshop on your site.

    For the record, as a half-brit (not “half-wit” you silly people, *sigh*) I am a big fan of sticky buns, and walking up to the bakery in the high street when visiting my gran is one of the best memories of my childhood visits to the UK.

    Sure, sticky buns are delicious, but I’m not about to go making them myself. That’s what bakeries are for. Now if only there was a microwavable sticky bun mix…

  40. #40 On November 20th 2007 at 09:24am Charles Roper said:

    @Dan:  there is: http://www.cooks.com/rec/view/0,1629,148163-230201,00.html

  41. #41 On November 20th 2007 at 10:50am Jon said:

    The cake is a lie.

  42. #42 On November 22nd 2007 at 02:51pm Joff said:

    Countless recipes in both books and on TV call for the use of a “plain sponge cake” as a foundation for the pudding, recommending you toddle off down to the shops for an Asda Smartprice cake.

    So why not use an instant cake mix to get the same results?  Especially when it’s cold, wet and windy outside.

    And frameworks… I love frameworks, snippets, toolkits and everything else that means I have a collection of tried and tested functions to build upon.  Stuff coding my own contact form script a million times, or a function to update a database. 

    Code reuse is king.

    The only danger is that like all ingredients, they are best when fresh.  Keep a folder of snippets in the cupboard for too long and they can get stale.

  43. #43 On November 23rd 2007 at 08:47pm Andy Clarke said:

    I think that that’s about enough on the subject for now. Those people who disagree with and dislike Jeff’ approach have covered him in eggs and flower. Those people who love Jeff are licking it off him.

  44. #44 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:17pm Jeff Croft said:

    ...and, those people who are able to separate a discussion about our industry from whether or not they personally like me will continue the discussion elsewhere.

    I agree, that’s enough on this topic. I absolutely deserved to be beaten up over this, but if the continuous cycle of depression and anger I’ve been feeling continues, I’m likely to do (yet another) thing I’ll regret. I can’t believe I’m still receiving threats a week later. It is, quite frankly, pathetic and sickening.

    If people do want to continue talking about CSS frameworks, please have the professional courtesy to leave me out of it, and please, for God’s sake, don’t make it personal. We’re all on the same team, here. Thanks, everyone.

  45. #45 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:26pm Mathew Patterson said:

    Nobody needs to be personally abusive about this, but Jeff, it’ a bit much for you to start this conversation in the way you did and then ask “please have the professional courtesy to leave me out of it”.

    You did personalise the original post by referring to a well known group of people.

  46. #46 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:32pm Jeff Croft said:

    You’re absolutely right, Mathew. I acknowledged in my comment that I “deserved to be beaten up over this.” And I’ve apologized, many times, to the people I’ve offended. Some have accepted my apology, and some have not. What I’m asking for now, is to move on. It is really too much for me to ask to let the personal attacks and threats die after a week?

  47. #47 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:39pm Mathew Patterson said:

    Absolutely it is fine to ask for an end to personal attacks and threats, which are clearly unjustified.

    I just think you are asking too much for people to totally ‘leave you out of it”. Everyone has the right to respond to your comments even if you have moved on, and I’m sure you agree with that.

  48. #48 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:42pm Andy Clarke said:

    OK, like I said. Enough is enough. This post is about cakes, so the only things that are going to get beaten around here are eggs. Now please get back to making silly cake related gags.

  49. #49 On November 23rd 2007 at 09:44pm Mathew Patterson said:

    Can I have Jeff pop out of cake at my birthday at least?

  50. #50 On November 24th 2007 at 01:50pm Charles Roper said:

    Yes, that’s enough eggy-ness from everyone. Let’s just go back to calling Jakob Neilsen a dick.

  51. #51 On November 25th 2007 at 09:21pm Guilherme Zühlke O'Connor said:

    It can be argued that instant mixes are not as good, not as tasty or whatever but let’s face it, taste is really subjective.

    There is no point in telling a person how un-tasty is something he just liked.

    Even further, if you home bake a cake from scratch blindly following a recipe, it might not be much different from following instructions on the back of the box. Maybe the ingredients are fresher, but maybe not, in general you don’t have control over the production of the ingredients.

    Carl Sagan said once “In order to make an Apple Pie from the scratch, you must first create the universe”, I assume this is true about cakes a well. You have to lose control at some point, you can’t grow your own wheat in order to make a cake.

    Instant cake mixes are quick and easy, and they are good enough if you don’t know how to do it better, but they will not ever provide you with the possibility to bake a cake like never tasted before.

    To bake a cake that will make people hold their breath would have to be handcrafted, and this means, no mixes, and also no recipes, but great control over the process and sometimes, even the ingredients, you might have to know some wheat farms and mills to find the right flour for you.

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